Posted by: ken smith on March 30, 2005 at 11:35:39:
In Reply to: Re: Mast step question posted by wayne matheson on March 29, 2005 at 20:08:34:
Wayne:
You can ask the technical committee for a ruling, and get an official interpretation. I am sure you and I both love finding stuff in our rules equally much. The rules are on line through the DN Europe site. Link at the top of this board to Europe, then link to constitution and specifications on the left there.
I agree with Geoff, dropping the mast and changing the step location is a 30 second job. Let me describe the two systems I have on my two boats. First set your boat so the shroud you will release is just slightly leeward (sail bulges toward that shroud)
One shroud has a quick release pin consisting of a solid pin and a piece of bungee to keep it on. I got these at the IL swap meet two years ago, simple, secure and strong. Pull on it and it will stretch the bungee enough to release the pin (wear gloves as the snap back hurts). Holding the shroud, grab the mast and lay the mast down.
My number one boat has a mast step consisting of a machined aluminum piece with five or six holes and a “pin” which fits in the holes and has the end machined as a ball for the post. Pick up the pin and drop it into the desired hole. Davenport designed the fitting and Lou Loeneke’s son Clinton has sold them as fast as he makes them. Geoff has pictures somewhere on the web. If you have access to machine shop, this is the way to go.
My other boat has a track and one bolt that acts as a pin going into a hole. I have an o-ring under the bolt, so finger tight is enough to hold it in pace. Loosen the bolt, move the step, tighten the bolt by hand. I have an older Polish version of the system, which works fine, that I tried to sell at the swap meet last year and is still available.
Lastly, adjust the forestay length (if necessary) lift the mast and grab the shroud. Either sit on the plank, or better, sheet in tight and wrap the sheet around the plank as you sit on the plank, and reinsert the pin. I have an Allen turnbuckle instead of the “normal” forestay fitting, so readjusting forestay tension is easy on my boat (no tools). With the main sheet trick, you can set up a tight rig by yourself. This is a 30 second job.
Tuning tip: if you move the mast step, the boom blocks need to move, too. You want to pull aft slightly when the boom is two-blocked tight in most conditions. Also consider changing the mast height with the halyard stops.
I have seen a mast step fitting on a threaded stock so a wrench or ratchet can be used to adjust with the mast up. It was made with a threaded stock piece oriented fore-aft, and a sliding car with the mast ball threaded, so turning the threaded stock moves the mast ball. Personally, I like to not carry tools. To set my boat up from the traveling configuration, I need one allen wrench for the runners. All else is either finger tight or done with pins, ring-dings or “safety pins.” On the ice, spare runners and an allen wrench is all I need to carry.